Discover the fascinating history of Grotta Mangiapane, Sicily’s hidden cave village near Custonaci. This prehistoric settlement offers a unique glimpse into ancient life, from Paleolithic rock art to 19th-century rural traditions.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY MARCO CRUPI

Entrance to the Grotta Mangiapane (Mangiapane Cave).

Nestled in the stunning Monte Cofano Nature Reserve in Custonaci, Grotta Mangiapane is a Sicilian treasure that remains relatively unknown to many travelers. This unique cave settlement offers a glimpse into both the island’s prehistoric past and the rural life of 19th-century Sicily. With a rich history, beautiful surroundings, and cultural significance, Grotta Mangiapane is an essential stop for anyone looking to immerse themselves in Sicily’s multifaceted heritage.

Grotta Mangiapane is part of the Grotte di Scurati, a group of nine caves that were formed through natural karst processes and are located within the picturesque Monte Cofano Reserve. These caves date back to prehistoric times, with archaeological evidence suggesting human habitation during the Upper Paleolithic period, around 36,000 to 10,000 years ago​. Tools made of flint, pottery fragments, and even ancient rock paintings have been discovered within the caves, showcasing their importance as one of the earliest human settlements in Sicily​.

The view from Grotta Mangiapane.

Grotta Mangiapane itself is an imposing natural structure, measuring 70 meters high, 13 meters wide, and 50 meters deep​. The cave’s vast size and strategic location close to the sea made it an ideal place for human habitation throughout history. Archaeological digs have uncovered a wealth of prehistoric artifacts, some of which are housed in prominent museums, including the Pepoli Museum in Trapani and the Salinas Museum in Palermo​.

View from inside Grotta Mangiapane.

While Grotta Mangiapane has prehistoric roots, its most famous inhabitants were the Mangiapane family, who lived there from 1819 until the 1950s. The family built a small village within the cave, which included houses, stables, a wood-fired oven, and even a small chapel​. This secluded, self-sustained lifestyle allowed them to thrive through farming, fishing, and raising livestock.

Inside Grotta Mangiapane.

Walking through the cave today, visitors can see the earth-colored houses, still beautifully preserved, and gain an insight into rural Sicilian life during the 19th and early 20th centuries. The Mangiapane family’s way of life was simple yet fulfilling, relying on the surrounding land’s natural resources for sustenance. The picturesque scene of small stone houses against the backdrop of the towering cave walls creates a timeless atmosphere​.

After the Mangiapane family left the cave in the mid-20th century, the settlement fell into disrepair. However, in the years that followed, efforts were made to restore this unique cultural site. With the help of local communities and even the last surviving member of the Mangiapane family, the cave was brought back to life​. Today, Grotta Mangiapane is an open-air museum, where visitors can explore the old houses, observe traditional crafts, and experience a vivid recreation of what life would have been like in the early 1900s​.

One of the most enchanting aspects of Grotta Mangiapane is its annual Presepe Vivente (Living Nativity Scene), held every Christmas since 1983. More than 160 volunteers from the local area and across Sicily come together to recreate scenes of rural life inside the cave, making it a dynamic historical experience​. Visitors can witness traditional artisans at work, producing fresh bread, cheeses, and other goods, while actors bring to life the simple yet vibrant existence of Sicilian peasants​.

This event, featuring over 70 meticulously staged scenes, attracts hundreds of visitors each year. The sounds, smells, and sights evoke a deep sense of nostalgia, offering a unique way to experience both the sacred and the everyday aspects of Sicilian heritage. The Presepe Vivente has become a symbol of Custonaci’s cultural identity, drawing tourists from all over the world during the holiday season​.

Grotta Mangiapane has not only been a center for historical and cultural preservation but has also made its mark in modern media. The cave has served as a film location for several Italian productions, including the popular TV series Il Commissario Montalbano and the movie Viola di Mare, among others​. Its rugged, authentic beauty makes it a perfect setting for films that explore Sicily’s natural and cultural landscape.

In addition to its cinematic appeal, Grotta Mangiapane represents a living memory of Sicily’s rural traditions, a testament to the resilience and resourcefulness of those who lived off the land. For visitors, this site offers a rare opportunity to step back in time and appreciate the quiet dignity of life in a bygone era​.

Grotta Mangiapane is open to visitors from April to November, with an entrance fee of just €3. The site is easily accessible from the nearby town of Custonaci, which is about 18 kilometers from Trapani​. Visitors are free to explore the cave and its surroundings, taking in the restored houses, stables, and craft workshops that showcase traditional Sicilian life​. For those visiting during the Christmas season, the Living Nativity Scene offers a particularly special experience.

The Monte Cofano Nature Reserve, where Grotta Mangiapane is located, is also a stunning destination in its own right, offering beautiful coastal views and hiking trails. Nearby attractions such as San Vito Lo Capo, famous for its white sandy beaches, and the charming village of Scopello make Custonaci a great base for exploring northwestern Sicily​.