Your guide to Selinunte Archaeological Park, Europe’s largest, filled with ancient temples, sanctuaries, and panoramic views for an unforgettable dive into Greek history on Sicilian soil.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY MARCO CRUPI

Temple of Apollo (Temple C).

Nestled on the southwestern coast of Sicily, the Selinunte Archaeological Park is one of Europe’s most expansive and captivating archaeological sites. Spanning approximately 270 hectares, it houses the remnants of one of the Mediterranean’s most important Greek colonies, established in the 7th century BCE by Greeks from Megara Hyblaea. This historic site offers an unparalleled experience, with majestic temples, ancient sanctuaries, agoras, and necropolises, all framed by breathtaking landscapes. Selinunte is an open-air museum, drawing history and archaeology enthusiasts from around the world.

Founded around 628 BCE, Selinunte enjoyed a period of great prosperity, reaching the height of its splendor in the 5th century BCE. Its strategic and highly coveted position between the Greek and Punic worlds meant it was often embroiled in conflicts with both Carthage and Syracuse. After its destruction by the Carthaginians in 409 BCE, Selinunte experienced a period of partial reconstruction, but it never regained its former glory. Later, under Roman rule, the city gradually faded into abandonment. Today, Selinunte’s ruins are a tangible testament to the political and cultural complexity of the ancient Mediterranean world.

The Temple of Apollo seen from the Temple of Hera at sunset.

The Acropolis of Selinunte, set on a striking promontory overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, is one of the park’s most captivating and strategic areas. Originally built and fortified by the Greeks around the 6th century BCE, the Acropolis spans a trapezoidal plateau that reaches about 140 meters at its widest point. This area was once surrounded by a complex system of defensive walls, which were later expanded with towers and gates in the 4th century BCE, reflecting its significance as both a defensive stronghold and a place of worship.

At the heart of the Acropolis stands Temple C, one of the oldest and most important structures, likely dedicated to the god Apollo. Built around 550 BCE, this Doric temple features a peristyle with columns on all sides and a pediment adorned with a sculpture of the Gorgon, a symbol meant to inspire awe and protect the sanctuary. The temple is also known for its metopes, archaic-style reliefs depicting mythological scenes, now preserved at the Regional Archaeological Museum in Palermo.

Just to the north is Temple D, thought to be dedicated to the goddess Athena, built around 560 BCE. This Doric temple is noted for its harmonious proportions, with slightly shorter columns compared to Temple C, and features a large, slightly oblique altar—likely honoring an older, preexisting cult.

In the same area are the remains of Temples A and O, dating between 490 and 460 BCE and often associated with the Dioscuri and Poseidon. Both temples share a similar layout, with columns in antis and a pronaos. Within Temple A, fragments of Punic-era mosaic decorations have been found, evidence that these religious structures were later reused during non-Greek periods.

The strategic placement of the temples along the Acropolis, utilizing the natural slope facing the sea, exemplifies Greek architectural ingenuity, harmonizing sacred purpose with defense, beauty, and strategy. The panoramic view from this elevated spot is breathtaking, and as you gaze at the columns still reaching skyward, it’s easy to imagine the grandeur that characterized Selinunte at the height of its power.

To the right, in the foreground, stands the majestic Temple of Hera, with its partially reconstructed Doric columns showcasing the beauty and elegance of ancient Greek architecture. To its left, the scattered ruins of the Temple of Zeus lie, with blocks and column fragments punctuating the landscape.

Temple of Hera (Temple E).

Temple of Hera (Temple E).

On the Eastern Hill stand Temples E, F, and G, situated in a monumental sacred area. Temple E, dedicated to Hera, is one of the most impressive and best-preserved Doric temples in Selinunte. Built between 465 and 450 BCE, this temple is renowned for its perfect proportions and its metopes, which are now housed at the Archaeological Museum in Palermo. Next to it are Temple F, probably dedicated to Dionysus, and the gigantic Temple G, which was once among the largest in the Greek world, though today it lies largely in ruins.

Located north of the Acropolis, Manuzza Hill is home to the remnants of Selinunte’s ancient residential district, offering a glimpse into the city’s urban layout. Among the ruins, archaeologists have discovered funerary objects and Punic tombs dating back to the 4th century BCE, along with the statue of the Selinunte Youth, a rare example of Greek bronze sculpture, now displayed at the Civic Museum of Castelvetrano.

To the west of the site, on Gaggera Hill, lies the Sanctuary of Malophoros, dedicated to the goddess Demeter, the deity of fertility and agriculture. This sanctuary, one of the oldest in Selinunte, once housed thousands of terracotta votive statues, many of which are now on display in regional archaeological museums. The area is remote, requiring a fairly long walk, but it offers a unique insight into the religious life and votive practices of the ancient colony.

Within the Selinunte Archaeological Park, you’ll find the Baglio Florio Museum, housed in a 19th-century rural building that once belonged to the Florio family. The museum showcases numerous artifacts unearthed at the site, including sculptures, ceramics, and architectural fragments from various temples and sanctuaries. A visit to the museum is a must for those looking to deepen their understanding of Selinunte and its art, with exhibits curated in collaboration with the German Archaeological Institute and other prominent institutions.

The Selinunte Archaeological Park is open year-round and takes between 2 to 6 hours to fully explore. The ticket office closes about an hour before the site’s closing time, which varies by season. The park is vast, and for those who prefer not to walk long distances, a tourist train (for an additional fee) is available to help visitors reach the main points of interest. It’s advisable to bring water and wear comfortable shoes.

Photography enthusiasts shouldn’t miss the Temple of Hera (Temple E) at sunset – its columns bathed in golden light create a magical atmosphere. From here, you can enjoy a stunning view that stretches across both the sea and the ruins of Temple C, making it a perfect spot for breathtaking photos.

Here are the main transport options for reaching the Selinunte Archaeological Park:

• By car: The park is near Castelvetrano in the province of Trapani, easily accessible from the A29 Palermo-Mazara del Vallo highway. Those coming from Palermo can take the A29, exit at Castelvetrano, and continue toward Marinella di Selinunte. Parking is available near the site.
• By train and bus: From various Sicilian cities like Palermo and Trapani, you can take a train to Castelvetrano. From there, a Salemi bus line connects Castelvetrano directly with Marinella di Selinunte, stopping near the park entrance. This option is ideal for those who prefer not to rent a car.
• Organized tours and shuttles: Some local tour operators offer guided tours of the park, often including transfers from Palermo, Trapani, or other Sicilian tourist destinations. Additionally, within the park, the tourist train is available to facilitate movement between the different archaeological areas.

The park is open year-round, with hours varying by season, generally from 9:00 AM to 5:00 or 6:00 PM during peak tourist periods. It’s recommended to check the current hours on the official website or through local tourist information services to plan your visit accordingly.