A breathtaking sunset over Pollara’s volcanic crater, with Alicudi and Filicudi on the horizon, capturing the essence of the Aeolian Islands.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY MARCO CRUPI

Panoramic view from the Belvedere of Pollara.

I’ve often heard from people that the most amazing sunset they’ve ever seen was from Pollara’s Belvedere. While I can’t guarantee it will be the best for everyone, I can confidently say that this iconic viewpoint on the island of Salina offers an unforgettable spectacle, especially at dusk.

The Belvedere is located at a small pull-off just as the road begins to descend toward the village of Pollara. This spot is perched on the rim of a massive, ancient volcanic crater that now cradles the picturesque village below. The crater, formed approximately 13,000 years ago, is one of the largest in the Aeolian Islands, with a diameter of over 1 km. It was created during a violent explosive eruption that partially collapsed, forming a natural amphitheater that opens towards the sea. Today, only half of the crater remains visible, as much of it has sunk beneath the waves, leaving behind steep cliffs and the iconic Faraglione rock as reminders of its volcanic past.

A short distance away, you’ll find the old navy watchtower, known as the “Semaforo di Pollara” (Pollara Semaphore), a historical relic that once served as a signal station for ships navigating the Aeolian waters. This lookout point offers stunning views of the entire bay, making it a perfect spot to observe the dramatic landscape shaped by ancient volcanic forces.

Semaforo di Pollara (Pollara Semaphore).

Waiting for the sunset at the Belvedere of Pollara, with Tommaso Ragonese on the left and me (Marco Crupi) on the right, with the Semaforo di Pollara (Pollara Semaphore) behind us.

From this vantage point, the view is nothing short of breathtaking. As the sun dips toward the horizon, the houses of Pollara – clustered along the caldera’s steep slopes – are bathed in a surreal orange light, transforming the scene into something out of a painting. The bay shimmers with golden hues, and the solitary Faraglione rock formation emerges dramatically from the tranquil waters, creating a striking silhouette against the vibrant sky. To the west, the distant silhouettes of Filicudi and Alicudi emerge from the sea, their rugged profiles enhancing the enchanting panorama.

In the soft light of sunset, the islands of Filicudi and Alicudi appear like ancient giants asleep in the sea. Filicudi, with its soft and rounded shapes, resembles a pregnant woman lying on her back.

Pollara’s allure goes beyond its stunning views, largely thanks to its role as a key filming location for the 1994 movie “Il Postino” (The Postman). This film immortalized Pollara’s serene beauty, with many iconic scenes set against the dramatic backdrop of the bay. The beach, once a charming pebbly shoreline, has eroded significantly over the years and is now mostly submerged, leaving behind a dramatic coastal amphitheater formed by the partial collapse of a vast volcanic crater. The area is still marked by the distinctive “balate,” ancient fishermen’s houses carved directly into the rock, which are now used as storage spaces. Access to the beach is via a steep, sometimes challenging path, but the effort is rewarded by breathtaking sunsets over the sea, with views of the Faraglione rock and distant islands like Filicudi.

To fully appreciate the magic of this place, plan your visit in the late afternoon, when the light is at its best. Bring a camera, a bottle of Malvasia wine – Salina’s signature sweet wine – and perhaps a snack of local capers or pane cunzato to savor the experience.

Whether you’re watching the sunset or simply soaking in the stunning coastal views, the Belvedere di Pollara is a place that stays with you long after you’ve left – a reminder of the untamed beauty that defines the Aeolian Islands.

The easiest way to reach the Belvedere is by car or scooter, which can be rented at various locations across Salina, including Santa Marina, Malfa, and Rinella. Alternatively, taxis and buses connect several points on the island with Pollara. For the more adventurous, cycling is a scenic option, though the steep roads can be challenging.