Text and photos by Tommaso Ragonese

Alicudi is the westernmost of the seven islands in the Aeolian archipelago, located off the northeastern coast of Sicily. This island is rightly considered the wildest of the Aeolian Islands. Its resident population is fewer than 100 people (in contrast to the early 20th century, when it peaked at nearly 1,000). Alicudi offers visitors, especially off-season, a rare experience of isolation, far from the hustle and bustle of tourist destinations. With no paved roads or motor vehicles, the only option to travel around the island is on foot. For the heavy loads, you can hire specially trained mules equipped with traditional pack saddles (known as varde).

Milazzo is the main departure point for the Aeolian Islands, including Alicudi.

Ferries: Siremar (Caronte & Tourist) operates regular ferry services to Alicudi. Departures are usually around 7:00 AM from the Milazzo port. Vehicles can be transported on the ferry, but note that there are no parking facilities on Alicudi. Travelers with dogs my prefer to use the ferry rather than the hydrofoil for greater comfort. Tickets can be purchased on Caronte & Tourist’s website or at the ticket office in Milazzo (Via dei Mille, 23). The ferry route typically stops at Vulcano, Lipari, Santa Marina di Salina, Rinella, Filicudi, and finally reaches Alicudi at around 1:00 PM after approximately six hours of travel. One-way tickets for non-residents cost about €28 per person.

Hydrofoils: Liberty Lines offers year-round hydrofoil services between Milazzo and Alicudi, with more frequent trips during the summer season. As of November 1, 2024, the schedule includes multiple daily departures. Tickets can be booked on Liberty Lines’ website or at the ticket office in Milazzo (Via Ammiraglio Luigi Rizzo, 41, open daily from 5:30 AM to 7:30 PM).

Liberty Lines Hydrofoil Timetable.

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+39 340 9023731
+39 090 9224193
+39 090 9284509

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NEW HYDROFOIL TERMINAL
Daily: 05:30 AM – 07:30 PM

Palermo is a great option for those flying into Sicily, as the airport is near the port from which, from April to October, Liberty Lines operates hydrofoil services to Alicudi.

• In April, May, and October, there are two weekly departures from Palermo at 1:30 PM and return trips from Alicudi at 9:35 AM.
• From June to September, daily services are available at the same times.
• Travel time: Approximately 2 hours.
• Cost: Around €35 one way.

Ferries: Siremar offers direct connections from Naples to the Aeolian Islands, with a transfer required at Santa Marina di Salina to reach Alicudi. The ferry departs Naples at around 8:00 PM and arrives in Salina at 9:00 AM the following morning. From Salina, you can continue to Alicudi by ferry or hydrofoil.

Hydrofoils: SNAV operates hydrofoil services to the Aeolian Islands from Naples Mergellina between May 29 and September 15. Departures are at 2:30 PM, arriving in Salina at 8:05 PM. Overnight accommodation in Salina is required before continuing to Alicudi the next day via Liberty Lines hydrofoil or Siremar ferry.

To reach Alicudi from Messina, you’ll first need to travel to Milazzo via bus or train. Giuntabus offers direct bus services from Messina’s train station to the Milazzo Hydrofoil Terminal. Check schedules here.

If you’re already on one of the other Aeolian Islands, reaching Alicudi is straightforward. Regular ferries and hydrofoils operate from Lipari, Salina, Filicudi, and Vulcano. If traveling from Panarea or Stromboli, a transfer at Lipari is necessary.

Catania Airport

• Distance to Milazzo: Approximately 150 km.
• Direct bus: Giuntabus provides a direct connection from Catania Airport to Milazzo port.
• Alternative routes: Take a bus to Messina, followed by another bus to Milazzo, or travel by train from Catania station to Messina, then take a bus to Milazzo Hydrofoil Terminal.

Palermo Airport

• Distance to Milazzo: Approximately 220 km.
• From April to October, direct hydrofoil services to Alicudi depart from Palermo port (see above).
• Alternatively, you can rent a car or take a bus or train to Milazzo and travel from there.

• Book in advance: During the high summer season, it’s essential to reserve tickets early to secure your spot.
• Check schedules: Always verify updated schedules with navigation companies, as they may change due to weather conditions.
• Weather conditions: The Aeolian Islands are prone to sudden weather changes, which can affect maritime connections. Monitor forecasts closely.

Maritime services dock at the “new” Alicudi pier, built in the 1990s. Historically, ships anchored offshore, and passengers and goods were ferried to the old pier by rowboat (Rollo).

Around the Scario (the area near the piers), you’ll find basic services such as two small shops, a ticket office for Liberty Lines and Siremar, a post office, and mules available for hire to transport luggage and groceries. Note: There are no ATMs on the island.

Philosopher, hiking guide, former competitive sailor. He has been living on Alicudi since 2021, dedicating himself to traditional practices, historical, ethnographic, and archaeobotanical research and sheer contemplation. He is the author of the memoir Il Bene sia con Voi! (2022) and Alicudi e la Segale Cornuta [The myth of ergot poisoning in Alicudi] (2024). Today, he is Alicudi’s only guide and produces Arcura, an artisanal wine crafted from restored alberello vineyards in historic districts.