A Guide to the Valley of the Temples: Unveiling Ancient Akragas
A Guide to the Valley of the Temples: Unveiling Ancient Akragas
Discover what to see in the Valley of the Temples: a complete travel guide to explore the archaeological treasures of Agrigento, from ancient temples and millennia-old history to breathtaking views.
STORY AND PHOTOS BY MARCO CRUPI
The Valley of the Temples in Agrigento is a magical place where the past still lives among the imposing ruins of ancient Greek temples. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is one of the most important archaeological locations in the world. This archaeological park, covering approximately 1,300 hectares, takes us back in time to the founding of the Greek colony of Akragas in the 6th century BC, now known as Agrigento. Together, we’ll uncover the secrets and wonders of this unparalleled site, from its iconic architecture to the myths that surround it.
How to Reach the Valley of the Temples
Entrance to the Valley of the Temples – Your starting point for a journey into ancient history. Here, visitors can purchase tickets and obtain maps and information to explore the vast archaeological site.
The Valley of the Temples is located a short distance from Agrigento’s city center and is easily accessible by car, bus, or train. If you’re coming from Palermo or Catania, take the SS189 or SS640 to Agrigento. From Trapani or Selinunte, follow the SS115. Upon arrival, parking is available at the main entrances, such as the Giunone Parking Lot or Porta V – Sant’Anna (3 € per car).
Alternatively, from the city of Agrigento, you can take the 2/ bus line, which drops you off directly at the entrance to the Temple of Juno. After your visit, you can take the 1 bus line from the western side of the valley to return to the city.
The entrance ticket to the Valley of the Temples is 15 € for adults and 9 € for young EU citizens between 18 and 25 years old. Children under 18 enter for free. Combined tickets are available to include access to the Kolymbethra Garden and the Pietro Griffo Archaeological Museum, with prices starting at 19.80 €. It is highly recommended to book tickets online, especially during peak season, to avoid long lines.
The Temple of Concordia: The Symbol of the Valley of the Temples
The statue of Icarus and the Temple of Concordia.
Built around 430 BC, the Temple of Concordia is one of the best-preserved Doric temples in the world, considered a masterpiece of classical Greek architecture. It stands on a four-step base, with a peripteral layout featuring 6 columns on the short sides and 13 on the long sides, reaching an overall height of 13 meters. The temple measures approximately 19.75 meters by 42.23 meters, covering a surface area of over 843 square meters. Its remarkable state of preservation is largely due to its conversion into a Christian basilica in the 6th century AD, dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul by Saint Gregory of Agrigento, which protected it from the destruction that befell many other pagan places of worship.
During its transformation into a church, the spaces between the columns were sealed, and 12 arches were created in the internal walls. The original orientation of the temple was reversed, with the removal of the rear wall of the cella and the addition of new structures, turning it into a three-nave basilica. This modification ensured that the structure remained intact through the centuries. Later, in the 18th century, the temple was restored to recover its classical form, with some of the Christian alterations being removed.
The Temple of Concordia.
The Temple of Concordia.
The Temple of Juno: Ceremonies and Destruction
The Temple of Juno.
Located at the eastern end of the Valley of the Temples, the Temple of Juno was built around the mid-5th century BC, during the height of the Greek city of Akragas. Like many other temples in the valley, it was oriented toward the east so that the first rays of sunlight would illuminate the statue of the deity inside the cella. Although traditionally attributed to Juno (or Hera, the wife of Zeus), this identification stems from a misinterpretation of a text by Pliny the Elder, which actually referred to a temple in Calabria.
The temple suffered significant damage during the Carthaginian invasion of 406 BC, as evidenced by the traces of fire still visible on its structures today. Despite the destruction, many of its majestic Doric columns remain standing, offering a spectacular view of both the valley and the sea. In front of the temple, you can still see the remains of a large sacrificial altar, where rituals in honor of the gods were held, likely including animal sacrifices.
From the Temple of Juno, visitors can enjoy breathtaking views of the sea, with the Mediterranean stretching out to the horizon, making the experience even more awe-inspiring.
The Temple of Juno.
The Temple of Hercules: The Oldest
The Temple of Hercules.
The Temple of Hercules (or Heracles) is the oldest temple in Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples, dating back to the late 6th century BC. This Doric-style temple, with a peripteral design, originally consisted of six columns on the short sides and fifteen on the long sides, totaling 38 columns. Today, only eight remain, restored in the 20th century using a technique called anastylosis, which allowed for their reconstruction using the original fragments found on-site. The temple’s attribution to Hercules comes from a reference by Cicero, who mentioned a statue of the hero inside the temple during his speeches against Verres.
The temple stands on a three-step crepidoma (base), and its columns, characterized by massive capitals and wide spaces between the cella and the peristasis, indicate its antiquity compared to the other temples of Akragas. Despite being partially destroyed by an earthquake, the structure remains imposing and captivating. On the eastern side, there are also the remains of a large monumental altar where sacrifices were once performed.
Visiting the Temple of Hercules today offers a truly evocative experience, thanks in part to its panoramic location and its historical significance for the city of Akragas, where the mythological hero was worshiped for his strength and courage.
The Temple of Olympian Zeus: Unfinished Grandeur
The ruins of the Temple of Olympian Zeus.
The Temple of Olympian Zeus is one of the largest Doric temples ever built in the ancient world, although it was never completed. Constructed in the 5th century BC, the temple was designed to commemorate the victory of Akragas (Agrigento) and Syracuse over the Carthaginians in the Battle of Himera in 480 BC. Its proportions were immense, measuring about 113 meters in length and 56 meters in width, with an imposing structure that made it unique in Greek architecture. One of its most famous features was the Telamons—gigantic statues over 7 meters tall that served as columns, representing men supporting the immense weight of the temple’s architrave. These figures symbolized Zeus’s victory over the giants, and by extension, the triumph of Greek civilization over its enemies.
Despite its grandeur, the temple remained unfinished and suffered significant damage over the centuries, particularly due to earthquakes and looting. One of the few remaining parts is the monumental altar, one of the largest in the Greek world, where large-scale sacrifices were performed, including the sacrifice of 100 oxen during hecatomb rituals. The altar and the temple were used as a quarry in the Middle Ages for the construction of other buildings in the area. Today, although the remains of the temple are limited, they still bear witness to the magnificence of this extraordinary monument, continuing to awe visitors at the Valley of the Temples.
The Temple of the Dioscuri: Castor and Pollux
The Temple of the Dioscuri.
The Temple of the Dioscuri, also known as the Temple of Castor and Pollux, is one of the most iconic symbols of Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples. Built around the mid-5th century BC, this temple was dedicated to the mythological twins, sons of Zeus, who were celebrated throughout Greece and Rome for their heroic deeds, including their participation in the expedition of the Argonauts. However, like many other ancient structures, the temple was subjected to multiple destructions—first by the Carthaginians and later due to earthquakes. What we see today is the result of a partial reconstruction from the 19th century: four Doric columns standing on three steps, reconstructed using materials found on-site. Its symbolic beauty is enhanced by a decorative rosette visible on one of the corners, adding a touch of elegance to the structure.
Originally, the Temple of the Dioscuri consisted of 34 columns, with six on each short side and thirteen along the long sides. Although much of the temple has been lost, the 19th-century reconstruction has transformed this fragment of history into an icon of Agrigento, often used as a symbol of the Valley of the Temples itself. Located near the Sanctuary of the Chthonic Deities, the temple represents not only a tribute to the divine protectors of heroes but also a site of great spiritual and historical importance for the ancient inhabitants of Akragas.
The Temple of the Dioscuri.
The Temple of the Dioscuri.
The Garden of Kolymbethra: A Green Oasis
An aerial view of the Garden of Kolymbethra, showcasing its lush Mediterranean plants and the network of ancient aqueducts.
The Garden of Kolymbethra is a true historical and scenic gem, blending nature and archaeology. Originally created in the 5th century BC under the rule of the tyrant Theron, the garden served as a water reservoir for the Greek city of Akragas, fed by an underground network of ancient aqueducts designed by the architect Feace. These aqueducts, known as the “Feace Aqueducts“, can still be visited today, offering a unique glimpse into the past.
Covering five hectares, Kolymbethra boasts an extraordinary variety of botanical life, divided into different areas including citrus groves, olive trees, and Mediterranean scrub. Here, ancient varieties of Mediterranean plants such as orange trees, lemon trees, centuries-old olive trees, and many other rare species thrive, all preserved by the FAI (Italian Environmental Fund), which restored and reopened the garden in 1999 after decades of abandonment. Visitors can enjoy trekking paths, tours of the ancient aqueducts, and a sensory experience through the fragrances and sounds of this beautiful corner of Sicily.
The Walls of the Valley of the Temples
A panoramic view through the ancient Walls of the Valley of the Temples.
The Walls of the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento are among the oldest fortifications of the Greek city of Akragas, constructed beginning with the city’s founding in 580 BC. This impressive wall stretched for about 12 kilometers, enclosing an area of 450 hectares that included both the city and its temples. The walls were built by taking advantage of the natural slope of the calcarenite terrain, and in many places, they followed a strategic path to protect the city from external attacks. The most visible section of the walls today is along the southern side of the Valley of the Temples, where the main gates to the city once stood.
The ancient Walls of the Valley of the Temples.
The construction of the walls was a monumental project that continued for decades and became even more formidable during the reign of the tyrant Theron (488-472 BC), who oversaw the expansion of the city. The walls not only served a defensive function; their proximity to the great Doric temples, such as the Temple of Juno and the Temple of Hercules, created a kind of “sacred enclosure” that protected the most sacred places of Akragas. During the Hellenistic and Roman periods, the walls were reinforced and rebuilt, continuing to protect the city until the decline of the Roman Empire.
Villa Aurea
Villa Aurea, located in the heart of the Valley of the Temples, is a historic residence that played a crucial role in the rediscovery and preservation of this extraordinary archaeological site. The villa is named after its most famous owner, British archaeologist Sir Alexander Hardcastle, who moved to Sicily in the early 20th century. Hardcastle purchased the villa in 1921 and used it as a base for his excavations and studies in the Valley. Thanks to his efforts, numerous temples were restored, and he is credited with the reconstruction of some of the columns of the Temple of Hercules. Today, Villa Aurea stands as a perfect blend of love for archaeology and the beauty of the Sicilian landscape: its gardens, filled with Mediterranean plants, offer a peaceful place for reflection, just steps away from the grand Greek temples.
The villa is now an integral part of the Archaeological Park of the Valley of the Temples, and visitors can explore it as part of their tour of the site. Villa Aurea hosts both temporary and permanent exhibitions that tell the story of Hardcastle’s life and his contributions to Sicilian archaeology, while also offering a stunning panoramic view of the surrounding valley. Visitors can purchase tickets at one of the park’s entrances, such as Porta V or Juno, or book a guided tour that includes a visit to the villa and its gardens. Access to Villa Aurea is often included in combined ticket packages that allow visitors to explore the temples and the Garden of Kolymbethra, making for a complete and fascinating experience.
Necropolis and Other Ruins
In addition to the temples, the Valley of the Temples is home to an extensive necropolis, featuring tombs dating back to the Roman and Byzantine periods. These burial sites highlight the long history of this area and offer breathtaking views of the sea stretching to the horizon.
Other minor temples include the Temple of Vulcan, the Temple of Demeter, and the Tomb of Theron, an imposing funerary monument likely erected in honor of those who fell during the Second Punic War.
Practical Tips for Visitors
To make the most of your visit to the Valley of the Temples, it’s recommended to arrive early in the morning or late in the afternoon when the temperatures are cooler. In the summer, nighttime visits offer a magical experience, with the temples illuminated and standing out against the dark sky.
Be sure to bring water, sunscreen, and comfortable shoes: the main path stretches for about 2.5 kilometers, so it’s important to be prepared for a long walk. For those who prefer a guided experience, there are several organized tours available, many of which also include a visit to the Archaeological Museum of Agrigento.